Do-it-yourself foundation for a wooden fence. Installing a strip foundation for a fence - video. Video: do-it-yourself strip foundation for a fence

Owners of private households, summer cottages and private areas of land seek to protect their property from uninvited guests and prying eyes by building fences. The more reliable and higher this barrier, the greater the feeling of protection from the influences of the outside world. If you plan only to designate your territory, then the supporting pillars can simply be driven into the ground. However, capital fencing will require the laying of heavy types of reinforced foundations.

What types of foundation for the fence are there

The main function of the fence foundation is to evenly distribute the weight of the entire fence structure. The capital foundation will exclude the possibility of rupture and deformation of such a structure.

The type of foundation to be laid must meet the following criteria:

• design features of the fence - the height and weight of the material used;
• the composition of the soil in the built-up area;
• the relief of the earth at the site of the construction of the fence.

In accordance with the listed nuances, a shallow base is suitable for light barriers, and for more capital fences, monolithic heavy foundations with reinforcement are suitable.

It should be noted that before construction work it is necessary to investigate the features of the soil.

If this is neglected, then an improperly selected foundation will cause deformation and distortion of the fence. As a result, you will have to rebuild everything, spending a lot of time and money.

According to its composition, the soil differs in several types:

1. Soil containing a lot of sand. During the melting of snow or heavy rains, such soil tends to shift. For such soil, it is better to use a strip base or a foundation on screw piles.
2. The soil, which contains a lot of clay and sandy loam, is prone to freezing to a great depth. This feature contributes to the appearance of quicksand, making it unstable. If there are a large number of large stones in such soil, then only a pile foundation should be used. If the clay composition of the soil has a uniform structure, then a strip base is suitable.
3. The soil, consisting of gravel, does not have the property of deep freezing and displacement when exposed to moisture. For such soil, a columnar foundation is most suitable.
4. If it is planned to erect a fence on rocky or solid stone soil, then any foundation, except for pile and screw, will serve as the foundation for it.

Tape

The tape base for the fence is a concrete structure, usually in the form of an elongated parallelepiped, which is reinforced with a frame of reinforcing bars before hardening. In the solid state, the concrete tape is the basis for the installation of pillars and spans of the fence.

Quite often, in order to strengthen the installed pillars, the tape base has an extension in the form of a cube. This design feature helps to strengthen the reinforcing pipe (vertical support) for the fence post.

When erecting a fence on unstable types of soil, the strip base is combined with other foundations. The strip foundation on concrete pillars has proven itself well. In the finished (frozen) state, this base is a solid reinforced concrete structure.

Due to its shape, this type of foundation evenly distributes the weight of the entire fence, increasing its stability. The tape base can be used both for heavy brick buildings and for light fences made of wood or profiled sheets. This gave grounds to call it universal.

The tape base is to be reinforced with metal rods, with a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 cm. To do this, a three-dimensional frame is made from the reinforcement, in which there are 4 or 6 long horizontal rods connected by elements of the same material. For these connecting parts, pieces of reinforcing bars of the required length are prepared, which are fastened by welding. The distance between the long reinforcement is from 20 to 40 cm, depending on the width and height of the strip foundation. The distance between the connecting elements is usually in the range of 50 to 80 cm.

The construction of a strip foundation is a very costly process, but such a foundation justifies itself due to its good stability and long service life.

From corrugated board

A fence made of this sheet material exerts a slight load on the base. In this regard, only the support posts are subject to strengthening. For such a fence, a columnar foundation has proven itself well.

This type of base is considered the most budgetary, as it is cylindrical or cubic poles, from 50 to 80 cm high. A metal pole is fixed in the middle of such a pole.

The construction principle of such a foundation is that a metal pillar is driven into the bottom of the hole, and its voids are poured with concrete. When installing such a foundation, special attention should be paid to soil research, since the fence made of profiled sheets has a large windage. If this is neglected, the posts in the fence will warp or deform under the influence of a strong wind.

The columnar foundation can be strengthened with reinforcement. For this, reinforcing bars with a length of 50 to 70 cm are used, from which a three-dimensional structure is made. Wire can be used as connecting elements. The image shows such a design.

A similar foundation is often used in the construction of fences made of wood and chain-link mesh.

For brick fence

Fences of this type are heavy, so the foundation for them must be capital. For a brick fence, you need to use a tape or tape-column base.

The strip base should rise above ground level by at least 10–15 cm.

Depending on the friability of the soil, the concrete strip can be combined with a column foundation, making expansions at the location of the pillars. It should be noted that a brick fence, every 250 - 300 cm, must have a pillar. These supports are necessarily reinforced with a channel, a pipe or several reinforcing bars. Around such a rod, a pillar is laid.

This type of foundation is the most expensive, since in addition to a large amount of concrete, a lot of reinforcement will be required to make a reinforcing frame.

Under the fence with brick pillars

The foundation for this type of fence is a concrete pile with a thickening under a brick pillar. Such a foundation is completely buried in the ground. The masonry of the pillar is carried out from its zero level.

The pile foundation must be reinforced with metal rods. A profiled pipe is used as a reinforcing element for the brickwork of the pillar and concrete pile.

This type of foundation is less expensive than the previous option. The columnar base with a thickening is successfully used in various types of soil, except for solid stone.

How to fill the foundation correctly: we understand the technology

Before pouring concrete for the manufacture of the foundation, it is necessary to calculate the proportions of the mixture and the total amount of materials for the manufacture of the foundation.

In addition to the concrete mix, you will need:

• fine gravel;
• sand;
• reinforcing bars;
• edged board, thick plywood or OSB boards for the manufacture of formwork;
• ruberoid;
• polyethylene;
• wire.

Proportions and calculation of the volume of concrete

For the manufacture of a concrete mixture for pouring the foundation, it will be necessary to observe the proportions of cement, sand, filler (crushed stone) and water.

For this purpose, coarser-grained sand is used than that used in the manufacture of masonry or plaster mortar.

The most suitable size for crushed stone (crushed stone) when building a foundation is about 20 mm.

The proportions when mixing the ingredients can vary significantly depending on the size and weight of the future structure, the characteristics of the filling materials and the climatic features of the site being built.

When using crushed stone with parameters of 20 mm, the proportions of cement, sand and crushed stone are used within 1: 3: 6. If such a filler is smaller, then the indicated proportions change to 1:4:4. A foundation with the specified parameters is suitable for the construction of garden fences and other fences with a relatively low weight.

For heavier structures, an ingredient ratio of 1:2.5:3.5 will be required. It should be noted that an increase in the amount of sand in the mixture reduces the strength of the concrete base.

Calculation of the volume of concrete mix

To pour the foundation, it is extremely important to know not only the proportions of the mixture, but also the required volume of concrete for the foundation. It is most convenient to make the calculation using a strip-column foundation as a template. Such a base combines all the listed types of concrete bases: columnar (including with expansion) and tape. Visually, a fragment of such a base can be divided into the simplest geometric shapes: a cube, a parallelepiped and a cylinder.

Using mathematical formulas from a school geometry course, it is easy to calculate the volumes of these figures with great accuracy, as well as the total amount of the mixture for the foundation.

As an example, a calculation will be made for a fence 16 m long. Let's say that concrete pillars are located at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. The diameter of each post is 0.15 m. First you need to set their total number to the specified length. To make it convenient to count, you need to use the thickness parameters of one column and one span: 2.5 + 0.15 = 2.65 m.

Now you need to find out how many such distances will fit in the length of the fence: 16: 2.65 = 6.03. You need to add one more column, since it will be extreme, 6.03 + 1 \u003d 7.03 will be rounded up to 7 pieces.

Based on the design of the tape-column base, there will also be 7 thickenings of the foundation. It should be noted that each thickening has a parameter of 0.4x0.4x0.4 m. By the same principle, their total number in the foundation is calculated. The span length in this case will be 2.15 m. Let's substitute the values: 0.4 + 2.15 = 2.55 m.

We determine how many such distances fit along the length of the fence (and add one cube): 16: 2.55 + 0.4 = 6.27 + 0.4 = 6.67 pcs. In this case, you can make the fence a little longer or shorten one span. The number of spans will be equal to 6 pieces.

Using the obtained parameters, it is easy to calculate the volumes of concrete for each figure.

Calculation for pillars

To calculate the volume of the mixture for one cylindrical column, you need to use the appropriate formula: V = πR²h, where π is a mathematical constant equal to 3.14, expressing the ratio of the circumference to its diameter; R is the radius of the circle; h is the height of the cylinder.

It should be noted that according to this formula, the radius will be 0.075² \u003d 0.005625 m (according to the rules for rounding numbers, this value will be equal to 0.006 m). Let's substitute the values: 3.14 ∙ 0.006 ∙ 0.5 \u003d 0.00942 m³ - this is the volume of concrete for one column. For all pillars: 0.0942∙7=0.06594 m³, rounded up to 0.07 m³.

Thickening calculation

Since the thickenings of the foundation have a cubic shape, the calculations must be made using the formula for calculating the volume of a cube, which looks like this: V=h³, where h is the height, length and width of the figure. Let's substitute the values: 0.4∙0.4∙0.4=0.064 m³.

The found volume of the mixture for the thickening of the entire foundation: 0.064 ∙ 7 \u003d 0.448 m³.

Span calculation

The spans are in the form of parallelepipeds. To calculate their volume, it is necessary to use the cube volume formula: 2.15∙0.4∙0.3=0.258 m³. We determine the total volume of the mixture for all spans: 0.258∙6=1.548 m³.

How to make a foundation for a fence with your own hands - step by step instructions

When the required volume of concrete is determined and all materials for construction are prepared, you can begin to make the foundation for the fence. To do this, you must perform the following construction steps:

1. First of all, you need to make markings for the trench on the site to be built. For this, it is convenient to use cords stretched over stakes.
2. Dig a trench 45 cm wide, 70 cm deep, 16 m long along the marked lines. The parameters of the trench are made larger than the size of the foundation itself, since a margin is needed for installing waterproofing and formwork.
3. When the excavation of the trench is over, its bottom must be leveled. To do this, it is convenient to use a homemade manual rammer. To make it, you need to attach a smaller bar to the end of a log or thick beam, which will serve as a handle. The result is a T-shaped structure.
4. Then, using a hand drill, at a distance of 215 cm from each other, dig holes with a diameter of 20 cm. If such tools were not at hand, then you can use an ice fishing drill. The depth of such holes should be 60 cm.
5. Pour sand at the bottom of each hole to make a layer of 5 cm. It must be remembered that wet sand is better compressed.
6. The bottom of the trench must also be covered with sand to get a uniform layer of 10 cm.
7. After that, fill the holes with a layer of fine gravel, 5 cm thick. At the bottom of the trench, this layer should be 10 cm.
8. Now it is necessary to cover the inner surfaces of the trench and holes with a waterproofing material. As such, you can use roofing material. For holes, it is convenient to use asbestos-cement pipes of the appropriate diameter.
9. For a strip-column foundation, it is necessary to make a reinforcing (reinforcing) frame. For this, corrugated reinforcing bars with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm are used.
10. Install asbestos-cement pipes in holes. You can use roofing material rolled into a pipe
11. Install metal structures in the wells. It must be taken into account that the reinforcing frame in the holes should rise above its upper edge by 15–20 cm.
12. Pour the concrete mixture into the holes.
13. It takes time for the mixture to set. Usually 4 to 6 days is enough for this. After that, you can proceed to further construction steps.
14. Cover the walls and bottom of the trench with roofing material
15. Lay a reinforcing frame of reinforcing bars at the bottom of the trench. It should be noted that the metal structure should not touch the bottom of the trench. For this, the frame is placed on bars or fragments of bricks. Alternatively, you can drive pieces of reinforcement into the bottom, on which to fix the entire structure.
16. Since the foundation surface will rise 10–15 cm above ground level, formwork will need to be made for pouring. This will require thick plywood, edged board, OSB boards or other material from which you can make a strong and even barrier. To prevent the sides of the formwork from falling apart under the pressure of uncured concrete, they are reinforced with struts and struts.
17. To prevent concrete from sticking to the formwork, its inner surface can be covered with thick polyethylene, securing it with stapler brackets.
18. Pour the prepared concrete mixture into the formwork. For the foundation to be strong, it must be laid in layers. It should be noted that during pouring, concrete mixes with air, which causes a lot of bubbles to appear in the mixture. Their presence makes the base brittle. To remove them from the uncured concrete, a deep vibrator is used. If such a device was not at hand, then you can use a stick or reinforcing bar, bayoneting the mixture many times.
19. The poured concrete must completely cover all the elements of the reinforcing frame. Concrete, even in a liquid state, can have an uneven surface. Therefore, while it has not frozen, it is necessary to level it with a rule or a wide board with even edges.
20. When the foundation is poured, it will take time to solidify. Usually this period is from 6 to 10 days. This period is applicable for air temperatures from +5 to +40°C. If the filling is carried out at low temperatures, then the solidification time will increase to 3-4 weeks. At temperatures below 10–12 °C, pouring is not recommended. It should be noted that the concrete mixture tends to quickly lose moisture. Therefore, after pouring and leveling, you need to cover the foundation with thick polyethylene. This contributes to uniform solidification and protects from exposure to sunlight. In addition, the first two days, the surface of the foundation must be moistened with water. If these actions are neglected, the frozen base will be covered with cracks, which can lead to a break in the concrete base.
21. When the specified period has passed, you can remove the formwork and proceed to further construction work for building a fence. The surface of the finished foundation must be cleaned of dust and debris, and only then proceed with the construction of the fence.

Video: making a foundation for a fence

A properly selected and poured foundation will make the fence structure resistant to temperature changes in the soil. Accurate calculations will exclude unnecessary costs for the purchase of materials and concrete mix.

Very often the most difficult question when erecting a fence is the question of whether a foundation is needed for it. The answer is unambiguous - it is necessary. The service life of the fence depends on this. Moreover, it is important to choose the right type of foundation for the fence.

What to look for when choosing a foundation

There are several types of foundation for the fence. That is why it is so important to choose the right type for a particular case. Remember that the correct base for the fence is fully consistent with:

• the weight of the fence;
• the materials used;
• fencing structures;
• the relief of the site;
• soil characteristics.

An important factor is the budget for construction, which you can allocate. In most cases, you have to work limited budget, which greatly complicates the construction process.

Each type of base is suitable for different fence designs:

1. The pillar foundation is a support driven or dug into the ground. They are located at a distance of 1.5 m. The depth of digging depends on the characteristics of the soil and the mass of the fence. They can reach 1.5 m. It can be used on different soils. As a rule, it is chosen for arranging a fence from a profiled sheet.

   Pillar foundation is suitable for areas with swampy soil

2. The monolithic base is suitable for fences made of stone, brick or reinforced concrete slabs. Also, just such a base can be an excellent solution if you work on a site with swampy soils. This type of foundation is a support that is installed in a layer of concrete. The most expensive, but durable type of fence foundation.

   A monolithic foundation is required for a fence made of brick or reinforced concrete slabs

3. Stone foundation. But this is rather just the basis for the fence, since it does not go deep into the ground. Massive blocks, metal frame and cement mortar are used for manufacturing. Suitable for lightweight materials.

   A stone foundation is essentially not a foundation, therefore it is only suitable for lightweight structures.

4. Strip foundation. This is a closed tape along the perimeter of the building, made of reinforced concrete. Suitable for various types of fences. The advantages of a strip foundation are in the optimal ratio of price and quality, as well as the ability to make it yourself.

Instructions for making a foundation for a fence

Almost any base for fencing can be made by hand, if you carefully study the technology and follow all its requirements.

Strip foundation

Process of creation of this type the basis for the fence consists of certain successive stages. With consistent and careful execution of each of them, in the end you will get a solid foundation for your fence. So, you need:

1. Carry out the marking of the territory. To do this, around the perimeter of the site, which will be surrounded by a fence, you need to drive in pegs, between which to pull the twine. Separately, it is necessary to designate the location of the gate and gate.
2. Dig a trench. The depth of the ditch is at least 35 cm, at the installation sites of the supports - 60–90 cm. The width is about 40 cm.
3. Install support poles. Any material can be used as them. Usually these are pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm. Their height should be such that, when dug into the ground, it is enough for the entire height of the future fence. They need to be installed in prepared holes, covered with broken bricks, gravel or stone.
4. Reinforce the bottom of the trench. To begin with, the bottom is covered with a layer of rubble or gravel. Horizontal reinforcement is laid on it, to which vertical pins are attached.
5. Install formwork. It must be installed in such a way that it extends 20–25 cm beyond the trench. At this stage, it is very important to ensure that the boards are installed strictly vertically. It must be properly fixed from the outside. You can do it with stones.

   Formwork is usually made from boards.

6. Concrete formwork. For the foundation, it is necessary to use two types of cement mortar. For the underground part, you will need a cement-sand mortar with the addition of gravel, for the above-ground part - without it. Remember that concrete must be poured gradually, excluding the possibility of bubbles appearing inside the formwork. Boards can be removed the next day. However, the fence itself can be erected no earlier than three weeks later.

   The tape should protrude slightly above ground level.

Video: do-it-yourself strip foundation for a fence

The base for a light fence made of corrugated board

For a fence made of profiled sheet, the foundation may not be so solid. Such a fence can be installed on a columnar foundation:

To increase the strength of the foundation, you can additionally dig a shallow trench, the bottom of which is covered with geotextiles, covered with rubble and covered with a film. Next, install the formwork, reinforce the bottom, then pour the cement mixture.

For such a fence, large stones laid on top of each other can also be used as a foundation. However, this has its own difficulties. Doing it yourself is not as easy as it seems at first glance, since the material differs in size and shape, and besides, their surface is uneven.

Video: pole base for the fence

brick fence foundation

A brick fence needs a solid and solid foundation, because the mass of such a structure is impressive. The consequences of non-compliance with the technology or the choice of the wrong type of base can manifest itself in the form of cracks on the fence itself. There are two options for arranging the foundation for a brick fence, which are equally suitable for both a three-meter structure and a small fence:

• strip foundation (depth 40–50 cm, width 40 cm), part of which is above the ground (it must be reinforced with reinforcement 12–14, two from above and two from below);
• the grillage is arranged at the locations of the pillars to the depth of freezing, that is, 120–1250 cm deep into the ground, and between them is the usual reinforced tape.

The second option for arranging the foundation is more reliable in the case of building a brick fence.

Brick fence requires a solid foundation

There are secrets, knowing which you can significantly increase the life of the foundation:

• under the tape, you can equip a sand cushion, which is additionally moistened with water, which will significantly reduce the risk of displacement of the base;
• use cement not lower than grade M-200;
• pour concrete at a time;
• if you do not make the solution yourself, but order it from a specialized company, then you need to order 10% more, since part of the water will necessarily be absorbed into the soil;
• between the foundation and the brickwork there must be a layer of waterproofing.

The basement of the fence is integral with the foundation

Foundation for fence with brick pillars

Brick pillars perform a decorative function rather than a practical one. However, such a fence can be installed in areas where it is necessary to slightly equalize the elevation difference on the site.

Under brick pillars, you can use a pile foundation

The process of creating the foundation takes place according to the following plan:

1. Dig a ditch along the perimeter of the future fence up to 70 cm deep and at least 80 cm wide.
2. Place a drainage pad on the bottom. You need to use sand and crushed stone of a large fraction for this.
3. Lay roofing material.
4. Pour a 20 cm layer of cement mortar. Lay a reinforcing mesh in this layer. Use rebar with a diameter of 6 mm.
5. After the concrete has completely hardened, cover it with roofing material.
6. Now you can equip the tape with two bricks. It will have to be raised to ground level.
7. Now you need to reinforce the location of the pillars. A wire with a diameter of 3 mm will be enough.
8. Lay out a brick plinth, and both the plinth and the pillars are laid out as a whole. Further, the pillars are laid out in monolithic masonry.

It is possible to reduce the cost of such a foundation by replacing part of the bricks with reinforced concrete slabs, and simply facing it with bricks.

The strip foundation under the fence with brick pillars looks original

Features of pouring the base under the fence

In the process of creating the foundation for the fence, the stage of concrete preparation is very important, and it doesn’t matter at all what kind of foundation will be on your site. There are certain rules that must be followed without fail. This is the only way to be sure of the quality of the foundation.

Proportions of concrete

The concrete mixture necessarily includes four main components:

• cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• water.

In the mortar for the foundation for the fence, crushed stone is added only to the part that will be located underground.

The quality of concrete also depends on the quality of the cement used. For the foundation, it is recommended to choose cement not lower than the M500 grade.

The quality of concrete depends on the quality of the cement used.

At this stage in the manufacture of the foundation, it is very important to observe proportions. Do not think that the more cement you add to the mixture, the better the mortar will be. This is not true. On the contrary, it will become unnecessarily fragile, which will lead to the destruction of the foundation.

As for the proportions, they depend on the brand of finished concrete:

• concrete M 100 - 1: 5.8: 6.1 (cement: sand: crushed stone);
• concrete M 200 - 1: 3.5: 5.6 (cement: sand: crushed stone);
• concrete M 300 - 1: 2.4: 4.3 (cement: sand: crushed stone);
• concrete M 400 - 1: 1.6: 3.2 (cement: sand: crushed stone);
• concrete M 450 - 1: 1.4: 2.9 (cement: sand: crushed stone).

The optimal proportion for the foundation for the fence is the ratio 1:3:5. As for water, it varies between 0.4–0.7.

Video: do-it-yourself concrete preparation for the foundation

The service life of the fence, its appearance depends on the foundation, including. It is very important to choose the right type of base, taking into account the soil, the topography of the site used to enclose the material.

Do-it-yourself fence is a profitable solution. In this case, there is no need to pay strangers: with the proper level of preparation, the work can be done independently. One of the most important parts of the structure is the foundation. It is from him that strength and reliability will depend.

There are currently no special normative documents for private construction. When designing and erecting, you can rely on the "Foundations and Foundations". The following sets of rules may also be useful:

• "Foundations of buildings and structures";
• "Loads and impacts";
• "Construction climatology and geophysics" (now canceled, but suitable for quickly determining the depth of soil freezing).

When designing a strip foundation for a fence with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account several factors at once that affect the size of the structure, the depth of the sole and the reinforcement of the strip foundation for the fence.

It is worth remembering that in private construction it is difficult to strictly adhere to regulatory documents. This can lead to waste of materials and forces.

Before you make a strip foundation for a fence, you need to consider the type of fence. There are three main options:

• lungs;
• medium;
• heavy.

Light fences are made of racks and non-massive materials (mesh, reinforcement rods, corrugated board, wooden shields, pickets). Such structures are highly resistant to uneven deformations. Fences with non-continuous filling (mesh, rods, pickets) are also resistant to tipping over under the influence of wind loads.

Medium fences are a combined structure consisting of massive pillars (brick, stone, concrete) and lighter filling (profiled sheet, reinforcement rods, picket fence). This option requires a more reliable foundation, as it is sensitive to displacements.

The third type of fences is heavy. They are completely made of rubble, concrete or brick. Such fences are damaged when the base is deformed, and also exert great pressure on the ground. The most difficult thing is to prepare the tape for just such a design.

The main problems in construction

When designing a fence, it is important to consider the effect of two phenomena:

• windage under the influence of wind loads (overturning);
• uneven deformation of the base.

The latter include:

• shrinkage of the soil (its compaction after the manufacture of foundations, sections of the fence can be lowered);
• frost heaving of the base (fence sections can rise).

To avoid trouble, it is necessary to take measures to combat frost heaving and carefully compact the base under the foundation.

Advice! You can understand whether the soils on the site are prone to heaving by looking at the neighbors' fences. If they were "led" in different directions, most likely it was this property of the soil that was to blame. It is worth looking only at the fences that have stood for several winters.

Classification is carried out according to three main features. According to the manufacturing method:

• Made. Great for mass construction, increases the speed of construction work.
• Monolithic. Most often used in private construction. Eliminates the need to hire expensive lifting equipment.

By depth:

• not buried with low bearing capacity;
• shallowly buried;
• deep laying.

By section type:

• rectangular;
• t-shaped section with broadening at the bottom.

light fences

In this case, it makes no sense to build a deeply buried foundation for a tape fence. This is not cost effective.

Under a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands, a shallowly recessed tape of rectangular section (laying depth - 0.7-1 m) is suitable. During its construction, it is important not to forget about the main problems: heaving and windage.

The width of the foundation is recommended to be at least 350 mm. At the same time, reinforcing meshes made of rods with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell size of 50x50 mm should be laid in the upper part at the places of rigid connection of the tape and fence posts. The protective layer of concrete for galvanized meshes is 30 mm, for "black" - 60-70 mm. Such a mesh will prevent damage to the fence under the action of the wind (relevant for structures made of corrugated board and wooden shields).

Fence posts are usually supported below the sole of the tape and concreted. This allows the fence to more effectively resist overturning and ground movement.

Lightweight fencing.

When laying the sole of the foundation above the freezing depth, it is necessary to prevent heaving. The step-by-step instruction in this case is as follows:

1. Backfilling of a sand cushion with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm. Replacing heaving soil with non-heaving soil at the sole level avoids pushing the structure out of the ground. The sand becomes a damping layer. It should be large or medium fraction. The material is laid with layer-by-layer compaction.
2. Backfilling the sinuses with sand avoids the effect of heaving on the side surface of the foundation. Backfill requirements are the same as in the previous case.
3. Laying a drainage pipe at the level of the sole (20-30 cm below). It is important to observe the correct slope of the pipeline. The maximum distance from the drain to the side surface of the tape is 1 m.
4. A storm sewer device for the organized removal of excess moisture from the site.
5. Insulation and waterproofing of the structure with extruded polystyrene foam.

Important! The supporting structure for the fence differs from that for the house in that there is no point in making an insulated blind area.

A fence made of corrugated board on a strip foundation can be built without fear of frost heaving, if non-rocky soils lie on the site: medium and coarse sand, coarse-grained rocks without dusty inclusions.

Medium fences

Fences of this type do not respond well to uneven ground movements. To prevent destruction, it will be necessary to pay great attention to the fight against heaving. On firm, non-rocky soils, a shallow tape can be used.

In other cases, it is reasonable to combine a strip shallow foundation with concrete pillars or bored piles. Additional supports are placed under massive pillars. The depth is set so that it is greater than the depth of freezing of the soil. The methods of dealing with heaving and windage are used the same as in the case of light fences.

Another option: a columnar or pile foundation with a strip grillage. At the same time, a gap of about 10-15 cm is left between the concrete tape and the ground, which will prevent damage to the tape when the soil buckles. The gap is made in two ways:

• A layer of low-strength foam is laid between the ground and the tape, which plays the role of a damping layer.
• Before pouring the structure, a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is laid on the ground, after the concrete has hardened, the sand is removed. At the same time, the gap is closed with sheets of asbestos (slate), which will prevent soil shedding.

A corrugated fence on a strip foundation in the presence of concrete pillars requires more attention than a lightweight structure.

heavy fences

Most of the financial and labor costs will be required for the construction of a massive structure made of brick, stone or concrete. The design has the following disadvantages:

• large mass and high ground pressure;
• sensitivity to deformations;
• windage, the need to take into account wind loads.

In this case, it is necessary to rest the fence on a reliable foundation:

• With good soil strength, a shallowly buried T-section tape can be used. The option is suitable for non-porous bases. Clay soils will require additional measures to combat heaving.
• In other cases, a recessed tape is used with support 20-30 cm below the freezing depth.

Every 30 meters in the tape it is necessary to provide a vertical expansion joint. A waterproofing layer must be provided between the foundation concrete and the fence material (brick, rubble). To do this, you can use rolled materials. The side surface for protection against moisture is coated with bitumen in two layers.

Foundation width selection

The width of the tape is selected by calculation. To do this, use the same technique as when calculating the parameters of the foundation for the house. But it is important to remember about wind loads. The building has a higher rigidity, so it resists tipping over well.

In private construction, you can use approximate values. In most cases, having built a structure with a width of 30-35 cm, you don’t have to worry about reliability and durability.

The type of base for the fence is chosen depending on the type of soil and materials used in construction. A strip foundation for a fence is the best option, regardless of what the enclosing structure will be built from. To save money, you can arrange a base on brick pillars for a light weight fence. The most expensive and time-consuming is the installation of a stone base.

Foundation selection

For the installation of fences, several types of foundations are used. The reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on the correct calculations and adherence to the base installation technology.

Before making a choice, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

• the type of soil and the degree of its shrinkage with seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity;
• the weight of the fence is important if the soil of a weak structure can sag if the foundation is not laid correctly;
• proximity to underground sources and the possibility of washing the foundation under the fence with sewage, rain, groundwater;
• when building near a road or railway, vibration loads must be taken into account;
• tall structures in strong winds can heel and bend.

The foundation takes on the load and evenly distributes it to the ground, thereby protecting the structure from shrinkage. A fence made of corrugated board and brick with a foundation will last much longer than without it.

Kinds

The main types of bases and their characteristics are presented in the table:

№	View	Characteristic
1	Strip foundation for a fence	They are used for the installation of heavy fences made of concrete blocks, bricks, etc. They are mounted in the form of a concrete tape around the entire perimeter. The width should be slightly wider than the fence itself. Depth varies from 500 to 800 mm. On construction sites with a slope, a tape with steps located at the installation sites of load-bearing supports is arranged.
2	Columnar	It is mounted only under the supporting elements to a depth below the freezing point of the soil. Such a foundation is suitable for a fence made of corrugated board, mesh, and other light materials. Holes are drilled at a distance of 2-3 m from each other, a pipe is inserted, reinforced and poured with cement mortar.
3	Combined	It is used on difficult soils and for heavy structures. It combines a strip base that expands at the places where the pillars are installed.
4	Stone	Arranged from natural stone and brick, does not require reinforcement with metal reinforcing elements. Suitable for stone fences or concrete slabs.

The best option is a strip foundation for a fence with brick pillars. It is strong, reliable and beautiful.

Tape base

The strip foundation for the construction of a fence made of corrugated board, wood, brick, stone is arranged along the entire length of the fence.

Strip foundation for a fence

Calculation of parameters

Perform calculations of the main indicators:

• The depth of the foundation for a strip fence made of light materials is 500 mm. For fences made of heavy materials, soil characteristics and operating conditions are taken into account. Sometimes it is required to deepen the base below the freezing point of the soil, by 40 cm.
• The base area affects the wind load resistance. Properly calculated indicators will protect the structure from shrinkage and give it strength. On heaving soil, incorrect calculation can cause the soil to push the structure out.

The foundation area must be no less than (k(n)*F) / (k(c)*R), where:

• k(n) - reliability factor;
• k(c) - coefficient of working conditions;
• R - soil resistance.

All indicators of building materials and soil are taken into account in the calculation of the foundation.

Preparatory work

Before you make the foundation for the fence, you need to do the preparatory work:

1. Clean the surface of debris.
2. They make markings, drive stakes along the intended line and pull the rope between them.
3. They dig a ditch to the depth of the foundation for the fence at least 400 mm, a width of 400 mm. At the locations of the bearing pillars, they are deepened by 60-90 cm, depending on the type of soil.
4. Select support pillars with a height of 2500 mm with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm.
5. A layer of sand and gravel 150 mm thick is poured at the bottom of the trench. Moisten with water and tamp in layers.

The foundation for the corrugated fence is made wider for better resistance to wind loads.

Do you need formwork

There are two options for mounting a fence with a strip foundation:

The device of the strip foundation for the fence

• Without formwork device. In this case, the posts are installed and fixed in the trench before pouring with cement mortar. Deeper wells are drilled under the pillars, a support is inserted and covered with dense pebbles: gravel, pebbles. After that, the reinforcement is laid.
• Formwork is made from boards, plywood and other improvised materials. The boards are knocked down into shields equal in height to the foundation. The formwork protects the trenches from falling asleep with earth. They are installed in a ditch, put spacers and supports so that the structure does not fall apart under the pressure of concrete. Fix the supports. Reinforcement of the foundation for the fence is carried out with metal rods interconnected by wire into a mesh structure.

The shape for concrete helps to ensure that the plinth will turn out to be even, and the fence will look more beautiful.

pouring concrete

You can pour the foundation under the fence with your own hands:

• with technological breaks;
• in one pass.

If the first option is chosen, it must be taken into account that the time interval between pouring layers cannot exceed 12 hours. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will decrease.

When installing in one go, you will need a large volume of concrete mix, which is better to order factory-made.

After the mold has been dismantled from the boards, the gap between the foundation and the pit is backfilled with sand or clay. They are well compacted, pre-wetting. The strip foundation is most suitable for mounting a fence made of profiled sheet, brick, concrete blocks.

The formwork is dismantled after the concrete gains more than 70% strength.

Foundation for brick fence

brick fence

The foundation for a brick fence is mounted taking into account the additional construction of brick pillars. Inside the brick pillar, there must be a metal pillar, concreted with the lower end into the foundation.

Many are wondering how to make a high-quality foundation for a fence with brick pillars. The best option is the device tape-columnar base. It is highly durable and looks beautiful. Here is information on how to make a foundation for laying a brick fence with your own hands.

Mounting technology

The foundation for a brick fence with your own hands includes the installation of a concrete tape with holes for the installation of pillars. The width is calculated depending on the weight and height of the building envelope. The higher the fence, the wider the concrete tape should be.

The foundation for a fence with brick pillars is made with an expansion in depth, its shape should resemble a truncated pentahedron with a slight slope. The lower and upper ribs are arranged in a ratio of 1:2.

Preparatory work

Before pouring the foundation for a brick fence, you need to make markings on the ground and dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the structure.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Marking is carried out by installing wooden or metal stakes, between which a rope is pulled along the level.
2. They dig a trench with a depth of about 500 mm, a width of 400-600 mm.
3. Make recesses under the pillars with a hand drill at a distance of 1-2.5 m from each other.
4. Mount the formwork according to the scheme described above.
5. A sand cushion 150-200 mm thick is poured at the bottom.

A layer of roofing material or other waterproofing material is laid and the installation of supporting elements is started, without which the brick pillars will quickly become unusable.

Installation of supports

In order for brick pillars to serve for a long time, they must be qualitatively strengthened from the inside:

Supports for a brick fence

1. Install metal supports, hammering them to a depth of 200-300 mm. The width of the well should be 300 mm, the minimum depth is 1 m. On heaving soils, a depth of at least 1200 mm is made. The supports are tied with metal rods and reinforced from the inside. Fill the cavity with concrete.
2. For a fence made of brick pillars, reinforcement of the base around the entire perimeter is mandatory. Metal rods are laid along the entire length according to the principle: 2 rods are placed parallel to each other at the bottom and on top. For heavy structures, transverse reinforcement is also mounted.
3. The tape is poured with concrete, the solution is well compacted so that there are no voids left.

They wait until the tape is completely dry, only after that they begin to install brick pillars.

Masonry brick pillars

brick fence laying

The foundation for a fence with your own hands is quite simple to make, if you strictly follow the technology. Brickwork is done with strapping with metal rods for structural strength.

You can make a fence by following the rule: the pillars are laid one and a half (in 1.5 bricks) or double (in 2 bricks).

The space formed between the brick and the metal post, fill with cement mortar with the addition of durable stone.

Lay the brick strictly in a vertical plane, check the level with a plumb line.

After completion of work, the pillars stand for 14 days. During this period, they are treated with an impregnation that protects against moisture.

A metal cap can be put on the upper end of the rack, which protects against penetration of precipitation and washing out of concrete.

stone foundation

Fence with stone foundation

The stone foundation is arranged for massive heavy fences made of natural stone or brick.

The foundation for a fence made of corrugated board or other lightweight material should not be made of stone for the reason that it will be unreasonably expensive.

To figure out how to make a stone foundation correctly, you need to learn how to calculate its surface and depth, and know the technology of the device.

The stone foundation is mounted in a pre-prepared trench. Natural stone is placed in the formwork on a previously poured sand cushion and a layer of waterproofing material.

The process of arranging a stone strip foundation is laborious and expensive, so such a foundation is made quite rarely.

The base for the fence of corrugated board

Corrugated fence

Profile flooring is often used for the construction of fences due to its high performance and low cost.

A fence made of corrugated board on a strip foundation will last more than 50 years.

They determine the dimensions of the platform and the depth of laying, proceed to the device of the strip foundation for the fence with their own hands. You will need a few helpers to get the job done.

Do-it-yourself scheme for constructing a strip foundation for a fence made of corrugated board is described above.

The second option is to build the base of the fence from blocks that are laid in rows in a trench. Each row of blocks must be poured with concrete and compacted well.

In advance, holes are provided for the supports at a distance corresponding to the size of the profiled sheet for the fence from the metal profile.

Built according to technology, a fence made of profiled sheet, brick, concrete blocks will be a reliable support for the entire structure.It is important to correctly calculate the main parameters and install the structure strictly according to the level. Which foundation to choose is determined based onpreliminarycalculations.

Differs from all alternative design options in its versatility.

It is equally suitable for the installation of heavy and massive buildings, structures of complex and the simplest configuration.

The bearing capacity of the tape depends on the composition of the soil in which it is placed, and the parameters of the base itself - the width, depth, design features of the sole, etc.

By changing the dimensions of the tape, it is possible to achieve a change in the bearing capacity, resistance to external loads or other influences.

Consider the features of using a strip base for a solid fence made of corrugated board.

The fence from a professional flooring represents a continuous tight protection. Unlike structures made of eurostudent or other piece materials, it experiences maximum wind loads and requires increased strength from support systems.

The presence of a continuous concrete tape, supporting the canvas not only at the points of attachment to the poles, but also at intermediate points, contributes to greater stability and strength of the structure, the ability to withstand wind or mechanical loads.

Alternative option- installation of individual pillars, each in its own support, followed by installation of horizontal veins and the corrugated board itself. In this case, the lower part of the fence hangs above the ground, becoming vulnerable to the germination of weeds, the passage of poultry, dogs, etc.

It becomes possible to make a dig, which significantly reduces the efficiency of the fence. The presence of a continuous tape at the base of the fence increases its working capacity and provides greater protection against entry into enclosed areas.

When choosing the most suitable type of base, it should be borne in mind that the installation of pole supports in your own wells, followed by their inclusion in the tape, is the most stable and durable design option, optimal in areas with frequent and strong winds.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of the tape base under the fence include:

• Durability, resistance to all possible loads.
• High bearing capacity with relatively low consumption of building materials.
• Possibility on folds of the terrain or slopes (at relatively small angles of inclination).
• Solid, attractive appearance of the fence.

The disadvantages of the strip foundation for the fence are:

• The need to dig a trench for the entire length of the fence.
• The longer the length, the higher the likelihood of deformation or destruction of the foundation due to heaving loads or seasonal soil movements.
• You have to wait quite a bit after pouring long time required for the curing of concrete.

All the advantages and disadvantages of the design in total make it possible to call the tape base the most successful choice when creating a solid fence from corrugated board.

Types of foundations with brick pillars

There are several types of foundation for a corrugated fence:

• Team tape.
• Ribbon-columnar foundation.

Monolithic tape is the most durable and load-resistant option. The disadvantage of the design is the need for a long exposure of the filled tape to harden the material, which significantly increases the construction time.

The prefabricated structure can significantly reduce the construction time of the fence, but the result is less durable, resistance to wind loads is significantly reduced.

In addition, the installation of foundation blocks requires the use of construction equipment, and the use of piece elements (cinder blocks, etc.) further reduces the strength of the tape.

The combined strip-column version of the base provides the most reliable type of foundation, capable of withstanding the strongest wind or mechanical loads.

At the same time, the need to hold for the prescribed time for concrete to harden is present for this type, as well as for a monolithic tape.

The depth of the foundation and its width, depending on the weight of the fence

Tape bases can be divided into:

• Shallow. The trench has a relatively shallow depth (usually 50-70 cm), which reduces the volume of excavation, but reduces stability.
• Buried options. The depth of the trench slightly exceeds the level of winter freezing of the soil, which makes it possible to exclude the influence of frost heaving loads.

is the predominant option in the construction of the fence. The reason for this is the low weight of the canvas and the lack of the need for a large load-bearing capacity.

The only serious and dangerous load that affects a corrugated fence is the effect of wind. A shallow-depth tape submerged by 50 cm is quite capable of withstanding these loads, so a full-fledged buried strip foundation is not used for the construction of fences.

The width of the tape sufficient for a sheet of corrugated board is usually not exceeds 25-30 cm(sometimes even less).

If a combined column-tape version is used, the stability of brick supports is quite enough to compensate for wind loads, so the width of the tape can be limited to 20 cm.

Choice of concrete brand and reinforcement diameter

For a tape base, medium density is traditionally used - M200 or M250.

Given the relatively low load from the weight of the canvas, and in appropriate conditions (location in a lowland, among tall buildings or dense trees that protect the structure from the wind), you can use less dense concrete M150.

Its bearing capacity is quite enough to support the sheet from corrugated board in the absence of additional influences.

NOTE!

Concrete is a material with large quality tolerances. Buying M150 concrete, you can get a material that practically corresponds to the M100 brand, which significantly reduces the strength of the tape. Therefore, it is recommended to use the minimum grade M200 to avoid inconsistencies in density.

The most suitable diameter for a tape of this size - 10 mm for working (finned) rods, and 6 mm for auxiliary (smooth) rods. If the tape width exceeds 30 cm, 12 mm working rods can be used, but this base width is rare and only for specific types of fences.

General scheme of the device

The procedure for creating a tape:

• Surface preparation - marking, removal of the top layer of soil, if necessary, it is divided into sections for a stepped strip foundation.
• Digging a trench. A ditch is dug with a depth of about 70 cm and a width of 20-30 cm greater than the width of the tape. The excavated soil is stored nearby, it is still useful for backfilling the sinuses.
• At the bottom of the trench, a layer of sand cushion is arranged.
• The surface of the sand is covered with a layer of geotextile and a double layer of roofing material for waterproofing.
• A crate is assembled and installed for.
• The reinforcing cage is created.
• Concrete is poured, the necessary procedures are performed during material curing.
• Stripping of the tape is carried out 10 days after pouring.
• After the end of the exposure, further actions are performed - waterproofing, backfilling of the sinuses, etc.

In accordance with the construction and design of the fence, additional procedures may be required - creating recesses for pouring poles, installing intermediate supports for the canvas, etc.

Surface marking and trench preparation

Marking is done by setting the center line using stakes. On both sides of it, a layer of fertile soil is removed to the width of the future trench.

Then markings are made for the wicket and gates, the installation sites for poles and other elements that have their own supporting structures are marked.

If you want to, recesses are dug for the installation of pillars for the canvas, gates and wickets. After that, they dig the remaining parts of the trench under the tape.

Cushion under the base

Sandy is usually covered with a layer, not exceeding 20 cm. This is due to the low weight of the structure and a small trench.

The surface of the sand is carefully leveled horizontally and rammed to the maximum dense state. To do this, you can use hand tools or a construction vibrating plate..

At the same time, the sand is moistened for greater packing density. Upon completion, it is recommended to lay a geotextile on top of the sand layer, which retains moisture inside the concrete during pouring.

Formwork installation

The formwork is assembled from edged boards with a thickness of 25 mm. The shields are assembled next to the trench, after which they are lowered inward and set in the desired position..

The shields are fixed using stops and inclined struts, all connections must be as tight as possible to avoid concrete leaks.

Slots more than 3 mm wide are not allowed(Ideally, they should not exist at all). If found, all gaps are plugged with tow or thin slats.

Foundation reinforcement

To create an armored belt, two types of reinforcement are used:

• Ribbed metal or composite with a diameter of 10 mm.
• Smooth 6 mm thick.

The frame is a spatial lattice of 4 working rods(2 above and 2 below) and a series of vertical clamps installed with a step of 1-1.5 m from each other.

Vertical reinforcement is needed only to maintain the working rods in the desired position; after pouring concrete, they simply remain inside the tape, no longer performing any functions.

Rebar knitting

The connection of the elements of the armored belt is made by knitting. For this, soft annealed steel wire 1 mm thick is used.

The knitting process is quite simple - the wire is cut into pieces of 25-30 cm. The piece is folded in half, wound from below under the connected rods, the ends rise up.

A loop is picked up with a special hook, with a rotational movement it twists around the other end 4-6 times, tightly tightening the connected rods.

The process is simple, even an inexperienced person almost immediately acquires the necessary skill.

Pouring concrete

Concrete is poured from different points, evenly spaced from each other. The faster the filling is done, the more uniformly the material will solidify, and the stronger the tape will turn out.

In order to eliminate downtime or interruptions in pouring, it is necessary to organize the process of manufacturing or delivering ready-made concrete to the site in advance. When pouring it is necessary to bayonet the material or process it with a construction vibrator to remove air bubbles from the array.

It is necessary to complete the work in one go, as cold seams reduce the strength of the tape, especially if it is long.

Concrete care after pouring and how long the strip foundation dries

The filled tape should be covered with a plastic film to protect it from the rays of the sun and create a special microclimate that slows down drying. The first 3 days the tape is watered every 4 hours.

Then, during the week, watering is done three times a day. After 10 days of exposure, the formwork is stripped, and the full period is 28 days, after which the concrete is considered suitable for further work.

Stripping

Demoulding is the process of dismantling the formwork.

The procedure is carried out as carefully as possible, since the strength of the material is still low and the edges or corners of the tape can be damaged. After the formwork is removed, the tape is allowed to dry on the sides, which contributes to the set of technological strength.

In order for the dismantling to take place neatly and without damage, it is recommended to use planed boards(at least from inside the form).

Waterproofing

Waterproofing allows to prevent the penetration of moisture into the mass of concrete.

The procedure is necessary because almost the entire surface of the tape will be in contact with rain or soil moisture, which destroys the material and reduces the life of the base.

Various materials and methods are used to apply a waterproofing layer, the most common of which is the application hot tar, bituminous mastic or special impregnations.

The most effective of them are special impregnations, which completely exclude the penetration of moisture into the concrete mass, although builders still have there is little information about them and they prefer more tried and tested methods - mastic or hot tar.

Useful video

In this section, we will provide you with a video on how to properly make a strip foundation for a fence with your own hands:

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